July 2007 Archives
July 31, 2007
He's been around the world, but John Besh (Chef-Owner, Restaurant August, Besh Steak, La Provence, and Lüke) has always valued the cooking of his native southern Louisiana—never more so than after Hurricane Katrina, when so much was destroyed and the very culture and its cuisine seemed at risk. Since then, he's been striving to preserve the local style of cooking - and its local ingredients.
The Crawfish and Andouille Grits represents a range of local products and the style of his beloved cuisine like nothing else.
Procedure: White Grits
- Bring the water to a boil and lightly season with salt.
- Add the grits while stirring rapidly and reduce heat to low.
- Simmer the grits for about 20 minutes, stirring constantly to prevent them from sticking to the bottom of the pot.
- To finish, turn on heat and stir in butter and mascapone cheese.
Procedure: Crawfish Stock
- To a large pot, add celery, carrot, onion, thyme, garlic, shells, and just enough water to cover the other ingredients.
- Simmer on low for 1 hour, skimming the fat off throughout the hour.
- Strain and reserve liquid in refrigerator.
Sautéed Crawfish and Sauce
Ingredients
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
30 each large crawfish
Creole spice, to taste
salt, to taste
6 tablespoons small diced Jacob’s andouille sausage
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon minced shallot
2 tablespoons small diced paquillo pepper
1 tablespoon chopped thyme
30 ounces crawfish stock
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 cups diced tomatoes
1 tablespoon chopped chives
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Procedure
Heat a large pan over medium heat and add the olive oil. Season the crawfish with Creole spice and sauce and sauté until they start to brown but are not cooked all the way through. Remove the crawfish and hold on the side. To the pan add the andouille sausage, garlic, shallot, paquillo pepper, and thyme and sauté until they become aromatic. add the stock and bring to a low simmer. Stir in the butter and reduce until thick. Add crawfish back to the pot and cook through. Finish with tomatoes, chives, and lemon juice.
Assembly
Ingredients
.5 cup picked chervil pluches (small three-leafed sprig of chervil)
Procedure
For each serving, place 4 tablespoons of grits in the middle of a large bowl. Arrange the crawfish (evenly divided among the plates, 5 each) in the middle so they stand up, tails facing in. Spoon the sauce around to fill in the negative space. Garnish with fresh chervil.
Serves about 6.
About the Chef:
John Besh grew up hunting and fishing in Southern Louisiana, learning at an early age the essentials of Louisiana’s rich culinary traditions.
As a teenager, he began working in commercial kitchens, where his knowledge of food and dining truly began to blossom. “With the many cultural influences in Louisiana,” says Besh, “it’s an exciting place to learn about food.”
He has traveled the world over searching out the roots of those far-flung influences, and infuses them into the French cuisine of Restaurant August.
Each new venture gives Chef John Besh another outlet in which to focus his broad-ranging culinary passions, all of which benefit from his dedication to local products, and–though his palate has taken him around the world–reflect the multi-faceted cuisine of his beloved southern Louisiana.
Visit Chef John Besh on the web @ rest-august.com.
July 25, 2007
Jacques Pépin, one of America’s best-known chefs, cookbook authors, and cooking teachers has published 24 books, numerous articles, and hosted nine acclaimed public television cooking series. Here, Chef Pépin shares his delicious recipe for Berry Potpourri in his own words!
Bon Appétite!
What could be more summery than a mixture of ripe berries at peak taste, smell, and color? This is the ideal dessert for a big party; it is fast to make, and everyone loves it, especially if you serve the fruit with a moist and buttery piece of homemade pound cake and some crème fraîche.I always try to go to local markets to buy berries. Instead of mixing them with sugar, I combine them with seedless raspberry jam or apricot preserves, a little lemon juice, and a julienne of lemon peel. In my garden I have spearmint, English mint, and peppermint, and I like to add some to my berries to add fragrance, flavor, and coolness to the dessert.
The fresher and riper the berries, the better the result. Do not use frozen fruit, because all the juice is released as it thaws and the fruit becomes soft and mushy. (I use frozen berries when I make a coulis, a puree, or a sherbet, however, because frozen berries have often been picked and frozen at their peak and are sometimes more flavorful than the fresh ones.)
The raspberries should have a deep red color and the strawberries should be bright red, with no green near the stems or tips, an indication that they are not ripe. Your nose will tell you whether your strawberries and raspberries are ripe and at peak. As for blueberries, taste them and sort through them, discarding pieces of leaves and stems or any spoiled berries.
Buy 1 pint each of blueberries, raspberries, and strawberries, and, if available, 1/2 pint of blackberries or boysenberries. Sort the berries, and if they are dirty, wash them before you remove the hulls, so the water doesn’t go inside the berries. Cut the strawberries, if they are large, into 4 or 6 pieces, but leave small berries whole. Remove a dozen strips of lemon peel with a vegetable peeler, stack them up together, and cut them into a fine julienne. Sprinkle into the bowl you will use for serving the berries.
Add one 12-ounce jar of seedless raspberry jam to the bowl, and whisk in 2 or 3 tablespoons of lemon juice. Make a couple of tablespoons of mint chiffonade by stacking up an assortment of mint leaves, rolling them together, and cutting them into fine shredded pieces. Add to the bowl, mix well, and then add the strawberries and blueberries (the firmer fruit), first. Toss, and at the last moment add the raspberries and blackberries, and toss again gently to avoid crushing the berries. Serve with a slice of moist pound cake and a tablespoon of sour cream, whipped cream, or crème fraîche.
—Jacques Pépin
Serves about 12.
About the Chef:
Jacques Pépin is former columnist for The New York Times, Pépin writes a quarterly column for Food & Wine. He also participates regularly in that magazine’s prestigious Food & Wine Classic in Aspen and at other culinary festivals and fund-raising events worldwide.
In October, 2004, Pépin received France’s highest civilian honor, the French Legion of Honor, at a presentation in New York. He is also the recipient of two other of the French government’s high honors: he was named a Chevalier de L’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres in 1997 and a Chevalier de L’Ordre du Mérite Agricole in 1992. The Dean of Special Programs at The French Culinary Institute (New York), Pépin is an adjunct faculty member at Boston University. He is a founder of The American Institute of Wine and Food and a member of the International Association of Cooking Professionals. He and his wife, Gloria, live in Madison, Connecticut.
Pépin has published more than 20 cookbooks with millions of copies in print worldwide. His latest book, Chez Jacques: Traditions and Rituals of a Cook, is available online here.
Visit Chef Jacques Pépin on the web @ hnabooks.com.
July 24, 2007
Richard Chamberlain, Chef & Proprietor of Chamberlain's Restaurants, shares one of his favorite recipes, Balsamic & Pepper Glazed Filet Mignon with Fingerling Potatoes & Red Cherry Tomatoes.
This recipe is special to Chef Chamberlain because it is "simple, healthy and visually colorful addition to any table."
Procedure
- Toss steaks in oil and sprinkle with pepper and salt. Sautee in skillet and finish in oven to desired temperature.
- Heat vinegar, Half of peppercorn, garlic, thyme and honey in another large skillet.
- Stir and bring to a boil. Simmer until reduce by ¾ths.
- When steaks are ready, add glaze to pan and simmer until liquid is fully reduced.
- Serve over roasted fingerlings and red cherry tomatoes.
- Garnish with balsamic syrup and peppercress.
Serves 8.
About the Chef:
On opening Chamberlain’s Steak and Chop House in 1993, Richard Chamberlain, took to heart the staple cuisine of his native state. The specialty of the house, prime steak, has the bold flavors for which Chamberlain’s reputation has been built. Shortly after opening, Chamberlain’s Steak and Chop House was named one of the country’s top new restaurants of 1993 by Bon Appetite magazine. Texas Monthly named Chamberlain’s one of the “Top 10 Steakhouses” in the state and “Best Steakhouse for Epicures."
In 1998, Gourmet Magazine rated them “One of America’s Top Tables” and in 1999 and 2000, Zagat published them as one of “America’s Top Restaurants." Chamberlain’s has been a “D-Best” in D Magazine. In 2000-2007, Chamberlain’s has received an “Award of Excellence” by Wine Spectator.
Richard opened Envy Steakhouse in Las Vegas, Nevada in 2003. In August 2006, Envy was named “Best New Off-Strip Restaurant in Las Vegas” by Las Vegas Life.
Chamberlain attended the culinary arts program at El Centro College in Dallas while simultaneously working at The Mansion on Turtle Creek. Currently he serves on the board of the Dallas chapter of the American Heart Association. His favorite things include volunteer work and spending time with his wife Lisa, sixteen year-old daughter Victoria and eleven-year-old son, Stephen.
Visit Chef Richard Chamberlain on the web @ envysteakhouse.com & chamberlainsrestaurant.com.
July 19, 2007
Daniel Humm, Executive Chef, Eleven Madison Park in New York, brings you one of his personal favorites, Beet Salad with Goat Cheese & Olio Verde.
Executive Chef Daniel Humm takes a modern approach to classic flavor combinations, creating sophisticated dishes that emphasize purity, simplicity, and seasonal flavors. “The texture and sweetness of the beets balances the tartness of the cheese. The different colors make it such a beautiful dish when it is plated.”
Play chef and recreate Daniel Humm's tasty Beet Salad recipe in your kitchen tonight:
Procedure
- Preheat oven to 350ºF.
- Brush beets with olive oil and salt, and then wrap them individually in aluminum foil. Cook in the oven for approximately one hour, or until soft. Let beets cool so you can handle them.
- Peel the beets and cut into wedges. Toss in olive oil and balsamic vinegar.
- Scoop the fresh goat cheese (the cheese should be very fresh and soft) into a bowl. Arrange the beets on top and drizzle with olive oil and balsamic vinegar.
- Sprinkle with fleur de sel and pepper mix to taste. Garnish with Nasturtium leaves.
About the Chef:
As a child growing up in Switzerland, Daniel Humm’s parents had always hoped that their son might follow in the footsteps of his father and become an architect. Instead, young Daniel took his inherited sense of structure and design and applied it to his true passion: cooking.
In 2003 Daniel moved to the United States and settled in San Francisco as Executive Chef at Campton Place. He quickly garnered attention for his innovative interpretation of contemporary French cuisine, with accolades such as Four Stars and 2004 Rising Star Chef from the San Francisco Chronicle, James Beard Foundation nominee for Rising Star Chef in both 2004 and 2005, and inclusion on the Best New Chefs 2005 list by Food & Wine.
In 2006, Daniel became Executive Chef at Eleven Madison Park in New York City, part of Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group. Executive Chef Daniel Humm takes a modern approach to classic flavor combinations, creating sophisticated dishes that emphasize purity, simplicity, and seasonal flavors and ingredients. Off to a great start, in his first year at the restaurant, Daniel led Eleven Madison Park to receive its first Three Star review from The New York Times in January 2007.
Visit Executive Chef Daniel Humm on the web @ elevenmadisonpark.com.
Roy Yamaguchi, Chef & Founder of the home of Hawaiian Fusion cuisine, Roy’s Restaurants, brings you his signature dish, Roy's Chocolate Soufflé, the all-time, absolute favorite of his daughter, Nicole.
Says Yamaguchi, "We perfected this recipe to the point where frequent visitors to the island claim they return just for this soufflé. We’ve made things easier for them now, by also serving this dessert in all our restaurants. This recipe is best when started the day before so the chocolate mixture can rest overnight in the refrigerator. If you prefer, you can bake the whole recipe in a small casserole dish and serve it at the table, or make the individual soufflés in ramekins. We make our individual chocolate soufflés in meta rings that are available from J.B Prince Co. in New York, (212) 683-3553."
Hey, we're sold. And we don't even have to leave our kitchen! Chef Yamaguchi shows us how:
Procedure
- In a saucepan over low heat, melt the butter and chocolate together. Set aside.
- In a mixing bowl, combine the sugar and cornstarch. In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs and yolks together. Add the melted butter-chocolate mixture to the sugar mixture and combine thoroughly with a wire whisk. Stir in the eggs and whisk just until smooth. Place in the refrigerator overnight.
- Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line 4 metal rings (about 2 I inches across and 2 inches high) with greased parchment paper. (Alternative, use 6 smaller molds.) Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set the molds on the sheet. Scoop the mixture into the molds so they are two-thirds full, and make sure the molds are not leaking.
- Bake on the top oven rack for 20 minutes. Remove the baking sheet from the oven, and while holding each mold with tongs, slide a metal spatula underneath, carefully lift, and transfer to a serving plate. Gently lift off the mold and remove the parchment paper. Serve immediately.
About the Chef:
First introduced in Honolulu by James Beard award winner Chef Roy Yamaguchi, Roy’s has become well known throughout the world for its Hawaiian Fusion® Cuisine—featuring the freshest local ingredients, European sauces and bold Asian spices with a focus on seafood.
Today there are 34 Roy’s restaurants around the world. 25 in the Continental US, 6 in Hawaii, 2 in Japan and 1 in Guam.
Most recently, Chef Yamaguchi was elected to the Board of Trustees of The Culinary Institute of America, the renowned institution he graduated from 30 years ago.
Among the many special events in which he has participated throughout the world, are the Grammy Awards, where he has been a featured chef for four consecutive years, and the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen in June of 2004, where he participated in the Celebrity Chef Cook-Off with his “sous chef” actor Kevin Costner.
On the literary side, Chef Yamaguchi has published four cookbooks and is working on a fifth.
Visit Chef Roy Yamaguchi on the web @ roysrestaurants.com.
July 17, 2007
Ken Callaghan, the Executive Chef and Pitmaster at Blue Smoke & Jazz Standard shares his favorite recipe for Devilled Eggs to bring back those fond childhood food memories.
Says Callaghan, "These have been a favorite on the menu since we opened five years ago."
Procedure:
- Place eggs in 4 qt. pot of cold, salted water.
- Over high heat bring eggs to a boil and then lower heat and simmer the eggs for exactly 9 minutes.
- Remove eggs from water and run under cold water to cool.
- Gently crack the shells of the now hard-boiled eggs and peel the shells under cool running water.
- Cut a small sliver off of each end of each egg, so that they sit flat on a plate.
- Cut the eggs in half width-wise making sure to leave the same amount of egg white on either side of the knife.
- Remove the yolk and set aside.
- The egg whites should now look like equal size cups.
- Place egg yolks in food processor and blend until smooth.
- Mix in Mayo, vinegar, mustards, cayenne, S&P and curry powder. (Optional)
- Place egg yolk mixture into a pastry bag with a star tip.
- Pipe mixture into egg white cups in the shape of rosettes.
- Refrigerate immediately.
Yields 5-6 servings.
About the Chef:
Ken Callaghan is the Executive Chef and Pitmaster at Blue Smoke & Jazz Standard. Ken graduated from Johnson and Wales in 1988 with an Associates Degree in culinary arts and a Bachelor of Arts in food service management.
Ken's professional career began at the Helmsley Palace Hotel, where he worked his way up to Chef de Partie. After two years, Ken was hired on at the Russian Tea Room, and served as Tournant for several years.
In 1993, he joined the team at the perennial favorite Union Square Cafe. In 1996, he was promoted to the position of Sous Chef, and then Executive Sous Chef in 1997. In 2001 Ken left USC to open the ground breaking urban barbecue restaurant Blue Smoke & its sister jazz club Jazz Standard.
July 16, 2007
FRESCO by Scotto® Restaurant has been open since November 1993. It's well known as the power broker's lunch and star-filled dinner. Now, the food of Fresco is available in your very own kitchen!
Here, John Scotto of the Scotto Family shares his favorite recipe for Spring Salad with Baby Spinach, Peas, Mint & Warm Goat's Cheese Crostini for you to enjoy this summer:
Procedure:
- In a large bowl, combine spinach, peas, basil, mint, parsley and onion. Toss with enough lemon dressing to moisten.
- Toast bread slices under hot grill, then spread with goat’s cheese. Reduce grill to low setting and warm through.
- To serve, place salad in the center of each plate. Place 2 goat’s cheese crostini beside each salad, drizzle a little olive oil over goat’s cheese and add freshly ground black pepper.
Yields 6 servings.
About the Chef:
John Scotto was born in the borough of Brooklyn. He attended Poly Prep, Union College, and attended the London School of Economics.
John has been in both the restaurant and night club business for the last 20 years.
John appears on our monthly cooking segments, as well as all other television presentations.
John lives in New York City with his wife and two children.
Visit The Scottos on the web @ frescobyscotto.com
Secret Sauce Rewind:
- Elaina Scotto's Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Fresh Spring Berries
- Anthony Scotto's Pistachio Crusted Sea Bass with Salsa Verde and Roasted Artichokes
