October 2007 Archives
Eric Ripert has graced Secret Sauce with a new simple recipe, Salmon with Warm Lentil Salad.
Chef Ripert currently has three recipes here for you to try at home, matching his recently announced three-star 2008 Michelin Guide rating for New York's famed Le Bernardin for the third consecutive year, one of three mere restaurants meriting this highest rating.
Why does this top chef enjoy this recipe so much? "I love the combination of salmon and lentils. It is very satisfying. I think this recipe is a great choice for when you want to cook something simple yet flavorful. Note that you can prepare the lentils ahead so final preparation is very easy. No need to soak the lentils, contrary to popular belief. Other fish you could substitute and serve with the lentil salad is cod, and chicken is great with it as well."
Here's how to recreate this multi award-winning chef's dish at home tonight:
Note: A small piece of cheesecloth and string are required to make this recipe.
Procedure:
- For the lentil salad, place the lentils, carrot, onion, celery, bacon (if using), and 6 cups water over high heat. Meanwhile, tie the parsley stems, thyme branches, bay leaf and peppercorns in a piece of cheesecloth and add it to the pot.
- Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer, skimming off the foam as it rises, until lentils are tender, about 23-30 minutes.
- Strain the lentils; add extra virgin olive oil and sherry vinegar and stir to combine.
- Season with salt and pepper.
- For the salmon, put 1 ounce of water in a pot (just enough to cover the surface), add some salt and put over medium heat
- Season the salmon fillets and place in the pot
- Allow to cook at barely a simmer until the salmon is just warm to the touch
- To serve, warm the lentils in a pan.
- Add the apples and mint to the lentils and stir to combine.
- Spoon the lentils the center of 4 dinner plates.
- Remove salmon from pot and place one fillet over the lentils on each plate.
- Serve immediately.
Serves 4.
 | The best way to determine if your fish is cooked properly is to insert a metal skewer. Chefs actually touch the skewer to their upper lip to test the temperature. |
Cooking Class with Eric Ripert:
Eric Ripert has had one impressive culinary career. Along the way, he's learned some invaluable tips every home chef should know.
Here's just a few:
Lesson 1: The best tip I can give to a home chef is to use the very best ingredients available. Use organic whenever possible. And, always insist on fresh. Cooking and eating is all about enjoyment. You can’t do that if you’re not working with the best ingredients.
Lesson 2: When choosing fish at the market, always ask to smell it. Fresh fish is never fishy; it smells like the ocean. If you are buying a whole fish, make sure that the eyes are bright and clear–not glassy or cloudy, and that the gills are bright red. Also, the body of the fish should be slick and not appear dry.
Lesson 3: When you are ready to cook your fish, be sure to season it on both sides, not just one.
Lesson 4: When preparing fish, never use tongs. A flexible fish spatula–thin and tapered, with long slits, lets you turn the fish without tearing it. If you’re a beginner, use a nonstick pan and plastic spatula.
To learn more about Chef Eric Ripert, read his full bio here.
Visit Chef Eric Ripert on the web @ le-bernardin.com.
Eric Ripert Secret Sauce Rewind
October 19, 2007
Secret Sauce welcomes author of The Relaxed Kitchen, Chef Brigit Binns.
In her latest cookbook and memoir, Brigit helps us choose dishes that cook slowly (without requiring much attention), and let meal preparation adjust to our busy schedules!
The most important lesson? Saving brain-power on complex dishes by buying a few great-quality, pre-made components, allowing last-minute kitchen time for enjoying a relaxing cocktail.
Brigit tells us why her Smoky Shrimp Escabeche is a winner on the dinner table: "Escabeche is a distant Spanish cousin of the Latin American favorite, ceviche, only in this case the fish is slightly cooked rather than raw, and instead of lime juice, the tart note is provided by vinegar.
To get a smoky flavor, I simply char a few tomatoes under the broiler, then whiz them up with some fire roasted peppers, and marinate with the wine-steamed shrimp for 8 hours or overnight (this way, the flavors have a chance to get really cozy). The resulting dish is restaurant-level complex, and all I have to do when guests arrive is transfer to some pretty glasses. Oh, and take a bow."
Procedure
- Preheat the broiler (or grill the tomatoes, if you have the grill fired up for something else). Place the tomatoes cut sides down in an oiled baking dish and place just underneath the heat source. Broil/grill until charred but not incinerated; ideally, you will have some black bits and lots of dark brown bits. Set aside.
- In the base of a large steamer, bring the wine to a simmer. Fill a large bowl with water and ice and place near the stove. Place the shrimp in the steamer basket, cover, and steam for 2 minutes. Immediately plunge the shrimp into the ice water; simmer the wine until reduced by about half.
- Retrieve the shrimp with a slotted spoon and spread on a clean towel while you prepare the marinade.
- Throw the charred tomatoes into a food processor and add the roasted peppers. Pulse on and off 2 or 3 times until nicely chunky, but nowhere near perfectly smooth.
- In a skillet, warm the olive oil over low heat; when it’s hot, add the garlic, and sizzle until golden. Add the thyme, parsley, and crumbled bay leaves and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring. Remove from the heat and add the reduced wine, vinegar, paprika, lemon, ½ teaspoon salt, a few grinds of pepper, the tomato/pepper mixture, lemon slices, and cayenne.
- Transfer the marinade to a large, shallow, non-metal bowl and add the shrimp. Toss together and refrigerate for at least 8 hours, preferably overnight, tossing every once in awhile. Return to room temperature before serving; taste for seasoning; adjust with salt or vinegar if desired.
Serves 6.
About the Chef:
Brigit Binns is the author or co-author of nineteen cookbooks and editor of countless others. She has also co-authored cookbooks with some of the country’s most respected chefs, including Los Angeles’ Joachim Splichal, translating countless complex restaurant dishes into home-friendly food.
Brigit lived in Europe for ten years, where she graduated from England’s Tante Marie cooking school, owned her own catering business, and edited the English-language magazine of Spain’s Mediterranean coast.
While pursuing her career, she has always entertained as though her life depended on it, and did have a disturbing habit of re-inventing the wheel for each dinner party–often with disastrous results.
But after three marriages on two continents and dinner party disasters in cities and towns across the globe, she’s finally learned the truth: Great cooking doesn’t have to be hard. These days, her kitchen is a very relaxed place!
Visit Chef Brigit Binns on the web @ brigitbinns.com.
Order a copy of Brigit Binns' The Relaxed Kitchen here.
Secret Sauce Rewind
- Get the recipe for Brigit's Mascarpone-Stuffed Dried Apricots
October 19, 2007
Here's yet another favorite recipe from Brigit Binns, Mascarpone-Stuffed Dried Apricots.
Says Brigit, "I love this dish because it perfectly embodies my belief that skipping steps is fine as long as you don’t skimp on quality, flavor, and style. Earthy-sweet dried apricots, creamy-rich and just slightly tart mascarpone, and a glass of Italy’s finest dessert wine are complemented by a few of the best almonds in the world, for the crunch factor. Here, it’s about the shopping, not the cooking—yet it’s hard to get more tastefully civilized!"
Kick up your feet and enjoy this deliciously easy dessert, Mascarpone Stuffed Dried Apricots with a Glass of Vin Santo and Marcona Almonds:
Procedure
- Cut each apricot almost—but not all the way—in half, crosswise, to make a stuffable pocket.
- Stuff each with a teaspoon of mascarpone, close it up gently, and place three apricots to one side of a large plate.
- Either make a small mound of the almonds on the other side of the plate, or place them in a small dish, such as a wide bamboo sake cup.
- Pour the vin santo into tiny glasses (grappa glasses work well) and place one next to the apricots.
- Repeat to plate five other servings.
Note: Bring the mascarpone to room temperature for 10 minutes.
Serves 6.
| Vin santo literally means "holy wine." |
More About Brigit:
You can find this recipe, Brigit's Smoky Shrimp Escabeche, and many more in her new cookbook, The Relaxed Kitchen.
Visit Chef Brigit Binns on the web @ brigitbinns.com.
Order a copy of Brigit Binns' The Relaxed Kitchen here.
Secret Sauce Rewind
- Get the recipe for Brigit's Smoky Shrimp Escabeche
October 12, 2007
John Besh, Chef/Owner, Restaurant August, has returned to Secret Sauce to share another simple meal you don't have to be an award-winning chef to make, Zinfandel Braised Beef Short Ribs with creamy polenta and a ragout of fall vegetables.
Chef Besh plays Sommelier and recommends which wines to pair this delicious dish with, and tells some great tricks of the trade on how to take this recipe from simple to superb:
"This a great cold day dish that is super with a wine such as a Hendry, 2001, Zinfandel, or, for that matter, any big red wine that you enjoy. Keep in mind that the dish could be prepared as simple as it is here or dressed up with a few sautéed wild mushrooms, or shaved truffle and an herb garnish such as fried sage leaves."
Procedure: Short Ribs
- Generously season the short ribs with salt and pepper. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the zinfandel, sugar, garlic, fresh thyme, and a pinch of salt. Marinate the short ribs in the wine mixture for 12 hours in the refrigerator.
- Pour 3 ounces canola oil into a Dutch oven over high heat. Remove the short ribs from the wine and allow the beef to rest for several minutes and come to room temperature. Reserve marinade.
- Once the meat has rested, place in the hot pan. Stir and turn the meat often, carefully allowing each piece to brown on each side before removing from the pan. When browned (will take several minutes per side), remove the beef from the pan and add the onions, carrots, and celery.
- Stir constantly and allow the onions to cook until mahogany in color, about 10 minutes; if onions are browning too quickly, reduce to medium heat. Add the short ribs back to the pot along with the reserved wine marinade. Allow the wine to come to a boil before reducing the heat to a simmer, skimming foam and fat from the surface of the liquid.
- After simmering for several minutes, add remaining ingredients and allow to simmer uncovered until the meat is fork tender and nearly falling off the bone, roughly 5 hours.
- Once the beef has cooked, transfer short ribs to a dish and cover. Reduce the pan liquids until they coat the back of the spoon, simmering about 30 minutes.
- Strain the braising liquid and return the short ribs to the liquid. Season the short ribs and braising liquid to taste with salt and pepper to taste. Reserve for later use.
Note: This may all be done up to 3-4 days in advance. Reheat in oven or microwave until meat is at least 160°.
Procedure: Root Vegetable Ragout
- Cut the carrots, turnips, and parsnips into pieces of about the same size and shape, preferably a medium-sized dice. Blanch the cut carrots, turnips, parsnips, and onions together, in a pot of boiling salted water, until tender, about 5 minutes or less.
- Carefully remove from the blanching water with a slotted spoon and place into an ice water bath. Allow vegetables to cool; reserve in refrigerator until you are ready to serve them.
- To serve, put the vegetables in a small skillet along with sherry vinegar, butter, and chopped tarragon. Place the skillet over a medium low flame and warm just moments before serving. Season with salt and pepper.
Procedure: Creamy Polenta
- Lightly season 2 cups water with salt and bring to a boil. Quickly whisk in the polenta until it has been fully incorporated. Reduce the heat to a low simmer.
- Add the butter and allow the polenta to cook uncovered for 30 minutes. Stir in the mascarpone and season to taste with salt.
Note: This may be made in advance and kept in the refrigerator. Reheat in the microwave just before serving.
Assembly
- Reheat the three components of the dish separately.
- On each of 6 large plates, place a couple of spoonfuls of polenta in the center of the plate.
- Carefully remove the bones from the hot ribs and place the beef short ribs over the bed of polenta.
- In a pan over medium heat, bring the reserved braising liquid to a simmer. Once the sauce is hot, check for seasoning and, if needed, add a touch of salt and pepper.
- Spoon the sauce around the beef short ribs and polenta. Carefully place the root vegetable ragout on the beef. Serve and enjoy!
Serves 6.
| Blanching is a technique where vegetables are placed in boiling water and then into ice water to halt cooking. Interestingly, although blanching is associated with "paleness," broccoli will become brighter. |
About the Chef:
John Besh sets the benchmark for fine dining in New Orleans with his restaurant family, including August, La Provence, Lüke, and Besh Steak.
His talent and drive have earned Besh critical kudos from the outset of his career: Gourmet magazine included August in its “Guide to America’s Best Restaurants," and the Zagat Guide rated August #1 in New Orleans for food and service.
In 2006, Besh received the James Beard Award for Best Chef of the Southeast. He is currently competing to become the Next Iron Chef on Food Network.
Besh has been deeply involved in helping New Orleans and its restaurant community to rebuild and reopen following the hurricanes of 2005. His restaurants celebrate and preserve the culinary culture of the city.
Visit Chef John Besh on the web @ rest-august.com.
Secret Sauce Rewind
- Get the recipe for John's Crawfish & Andouille Grits
By overwhelming request, the Scotto family shares their Columbus Day recipe for Bread and Ricotta Dumplings with Genovese Sauce, as featured on TODAY:
Procedure: Dumplings
- Put ricotta in a fine strainer set over a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 8 hours or overnight. The cheese will become dry and firm.
- In a large bowl, combine ricotta, flour, eggs, parmesan, bread crumbs, parsley and black pepper. Stir together gently until a soft dough forms. Add a little more flour if the dough is too sticky.
- Dust hands with flour and shape into the size of small golf balls using approximately 2 tablespoons of dough for each one. Place dumplings on a floured baking sheet.
- In a large pot, bring 6 quarts lightly salted water to a boil. Set up an ice bath next to stove filled with ice and water.
- Gently place dumplings in pot of boiling water; do not over crowd so dumplings are able to float freely. Cook until they rise to the surface, about 6 minutes. Scoop them out of pot with a wire skimmer and transfer to ice bath. When cool, drain, transfer to a bowl and toss with olive oil; set aside.
Procedure: Sauce
- In a 12-inch sauté pan, heat olive oil over medium to high heat until hot.
- Add garlic, onion, anchovy, olives, capers, red pepper and oregano; cook together until light in color and translucent.
- Add red wine and cook for 2 minutes, then add tomato sauce and lower heat.
- Simmer for additional 10 to 15 minutes then finish sauce with fresh lemon zest, reason with salt and pepper.
To Assemble and Serve
- Preheat oven to 400°.
- Place dumplings in an oven proof casserole dish. Cover dumplings with sauce, sprinkle with grated parmesan cheese and bake in oven for 20 minutes.
- Serve as soon as the dumplings are removed from oven. The dumplings can also be placed in individual gratin dishes and served the same way.
Makes 6 servings.
Watch the Scottos cook up this recipe on TODAY:
Scottos Columbus Day Recipes:
October 8, 2007
It's Columbus Day and our favorite Italian family, The Scottos of Manhattan's FRESCO by Scotto® and FRESCO on the go®, are back on Secret Sauce to share another simple recipe for your kitchen, Three Cheese Polenta Gratin alla Genovese.
Elaina Scotto says about this multi-purpose dish, "If you're feeling like you need a pick me up, try this polenta gratin. You will love it. It’s comfort food at it’s best! The best part—it’s simple to make. It works well as a side dish or an appetizer. Happy Columbus Day!"
Here's how:
Procedure:
- Preheat oven on broil setting.
- Bring water, olive oil, and milk to a boil in 4-quart sauce pan. Add polenta in a thin stream, stirring constantly with a whisk. Lower heat and cook while stirring until polenta is thick as porridge, about 5 to 7 minutes.
- Remove from heat and whisk in ricotta evenly through polenta then fold in mozzarella and fontina; cheeses will begin to melt. Season with salt and pepper.
- Butter 8x12-inch casserole or gratin dish evenly. Pour hot polenta into casserole and spread evenly with a spatula.
- Sprinkle grated parmesan cheese evenly across top of polenta.
- Place in oven on broiler setting on middle rack and bake for 3 to 5 minutes, or until top of polenta is golden brown. Remove from oven, set aside for 5 to 7 minutes, and then serve. Letting polenta rest will allow cheese to melt evenly inside casserole which also needs to cool down because of it being so hot.
Makes 6 to 8 servings.
Watch the Scottos cook up this recipe on TODAY:
More on The Scottos:
Visit The Scottos on the web @ frescobyscotto.com.
Scotto Secret Sauce Rewind:
- Elaina Scotto's Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Fresh Spring Berries
- John Scotto's Spring Salad with Baby Spinach, Peas, Mint & Warm Goat's Cheese Crostini
- Anthony Scotto's Pistachio Crusted Sea Bass with Salsa Verde and Roasted Artichokes
- Video: The Scotto's Trip to Italy on TODAY
October 5, 2007
Secret Sauce welcomes Colorado's Chair 8 Chef & owner Jake Linzinmeir and his delicious dish pick, Telluride Shepherd’s Pie.
This hardy meal is one of Jake's personal favorites, says the acclaimed chef, "Because we use a local lamb from Foxfire Farms, it's perfect after a day on the ski mountain and very simple to make."
Tasty and simple is what we're all about!
Impress your friends and family with this comfort food recipe tonight. (All that's missing are the skis!)
Procedure: For lamb
- In large pan, heat oil over medium-high heat.
- Add lamb and brown, stirring occasionally.
- Remove lamb and drain.
- Add carrots, celery and onions; sauté until onions are translucent.
- Deglaze with a fine stout ale [Dark beer].
- Stir in tomato paste, bring to a slow boil.
- Add lamb stock, chicken stock, rosemary, thyme, salt, pepper and sugar.
- Reduce heat and simmer, reducing liquid by one-third.
Procedure: For potatoes
- In bowl, mix potatoes with cheese, soup, crème fraîche, salt and pepper.
- Layer into 2” hotel half pan or casserole dish.
- Cover with layer of corn flakes and drizzle with butter.
- Bake 35 to 45 minutes at 325º.
- Cool or reserve warm if using immediately.
Procedure: To assemble
- Heat stew to desired temperature, place in oven-proof bowl.
- Cut portion of potatoes to cover dish and place over stew.
- Put back in oven or place under broiler to warm.
Serves 12.
| Deglazing means "adding liquid to a pan to create a sauce from the meat juice cooked onto the bottom." |
About the Chef:
Jake Linzinmeir comes from the great Midwest where he grew up in the kitchens of his family farm. The son of a pilot and an internationally traveling family, Jake was exposed to the regional cuisines and cultures of America, Asia and Europe from a young age.
With this influence, he chose to attend Cornell University's acclaimed School of Hotel Administration. A specific interest in the independent restaurant world took Jake to kitchens and restaurants of New York, Aspen, Los Angeles and Italy.
While in Italy he was selected to stage with the Michelin Three Star Le Calandre near Venice with Chef Massimiliano Aljamo, the youngest Chef to ever earn three Michelin Stars.
Currently, Jake owns and operates a number of restaurants in Telluride, Colorado, including The Bluepoint Grill & Noir Bar, The Excelsior Café, and Chair 8. Other concepts he has begun include Sushi Kiko, The Excelsior Deli, and The Wildflour Market.
Jake has been a regular guest of NBC's The Today Show and featured in Bon Appetite, Food Arts, Newsweek as well as representing Amstel’s “Living Tastefully” campaign as their featured Chef.
Recently selected as one of the industries Rising Stars by Restaurant Hospitality magazine, Jake continues to lecture and demonstrate at culinary events throughout the country. He's currently compiling recipes for a new cookbook for all to enjoy his dishes at home.
Visit Chef Jake Linzinmeir on the web @ Chair 8.com.
